1 cup excellent-quality 10-year-old port 1 cups good-quality sherry vinegar 1 1/2 tablespoons corn oil 1/2 pound fresh or frozen cepes, stems cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, caps halved if small or cut into 3 or 4 slices if large 1 branch fresh thyme 1 clove garlic, peeled and halved 1 shallot, peeled and minced 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter Fine sea salt, to taste Freshly ground white pepper, to taste 2 red snapper fillets a pinch Chinese five-spice powder 2 tsp minced fresh chives 1. Bring the port to a boil in a medium-size heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Lower the heat slightly and simmer until reduced by half (if using a gas stove, never let the flames extend above the bottom edge of the pan). Add the vinegar and simmer until reduced almost to a syrup consistency, lowering the heat as necessary to keep the sauce from burning around the edges. 2. Put 1 tablespoon of corn oil in a skillet and place over high heat until the oil is just smoking. Add the cepes, thyme, and garlic between the skillets and lower the heat to medium. Sauté until browned, about 4 minutes. Turn the heat to low and add the shallots and 1 tbsp butter. Season both with salt and pepper. Cook until the shallot is softened and the cepes are tender, about 6 minutes more. Discard the garlic and thyme and combine the mixtures. 3. Season both sides of the snapper with salt and pepper. Sprinkle the five-spice powder over the skin and rub it into the fish. Clean the skillet and add tablespoon of corn oil. Place over high heat until the oil is just smoking. Add the snapper to the skillet, skin side down, and briefly hold the fillets down with a spatula to prevent the skin from shrinking. Sauté until the bottom of the fillets are dark and crusted, about 5 minutes. Turn and cook for about 5 minutes longer, until a metal skewer inserted into the fish for 5 seconds is met with medium resistance and feels warm when touched to your lip. Keep the fillets warm. 4. Meanwhile, reheat the mushrooms. Bring the sauce to a boil over high heat. Cut the remaining 3 tablespoons of butter in to 1/2-inch pieces. Lift the saucepan a few inches above the heat and add the butter. Shake the pan back and forth until the butter is melted and incorporated into the sauce; this will take about 3 minutes. Do not stir or whisk the butter into the sauce. The sauce will be very shiny and clear. 5. To serve, stir the chives into the mushrooms. Top with the snapper. Drizzle the sauce around the mushrooms and serve immediately.